I have always considered 30 to be one of those birthdays that you make a big deal about. However, because we are living in Germany, I was faced with the fact that I would be spending my 30th birthday without family and friends celebrating. So I decided to at least have it in a great place.
Originally, we had planned to go to Bern, Switzerland but we had a little snag: We took the paperwork for Sadie’s residence permit to the local government office, and they decided to keep Sadie’s passport while they worked on the the residence permit. Since we cannot leave the country without Sadie’s passport (because they might not let us back in), our plans had to change. After doing a little research, we decided to head north to Rothenburg, Germany. Several different sources recommended Rothenburg as the prettiest, most well kept medieval town in all of Germany.
Friday night before we left, we had a wonderful dinner without any kids (for only the second time since arriving in Germany), then we woke early Saturday and hit the road. We arrived in Rothenburg around lunch time after the 2-and-a-half hour trip from Niedereschach. We hadn’t made a hotel reservation, so we needed to go to the visitor’s bureau first. We picked out a hotel we had seen on the web that had a room big enough for 5, and fortunately they had a room. The tourist season doesn’t officially start until April, so the city was not as crowded as it could have been.
Of course, during our walk from there to our hotel, one of the first sights we saw was a McDonald’s and the kids immediately made their lunch request known. So we sat down to a less-than-wonderful meal of French fries and chicken nuggets.
All fueled up, we hit the town. We walked up and down the main street several times, doing a bit of shopping and looking for our hotel. Upon arrival at our hotel, I was completely in love with its charm. In fact, true to the tales we had heard, the whole town oozed with charm. What a wonderful choice we had made!

The picturesque street near our hotel

The Rathhaus (government building).
The other reason we chose Rothenburg was that I know someone who lives there. I belong to an expat message board I had become acquainted with one of the other women on the board. Karen has lived in Rothenburg with her husband Eric and 21-month-old daughter Greta since the end of October. We arranged to meet with them on Saturday afternoon. I thought it would be fun to finally meet her, speak in English, and let the kids play.
You see, our kids have not played with other English-speaking kids in almost a year. What a thrill I thought this would be for them. As it turns out, Greta did not do much talking, but the kids enjoyed themselves anyway.
The full name of the town is actually Rothenburg ob der Tauber (“Rothenburg above the Tauber river”). The city is located on a plateau that overlooks the river valley. We spent most of the afternoon at a park at the edge of this dramatic view letting the kids play while the adults talked.
At one point, something very strange happened to us: an older woman came up to us and spoke to us in English. She said, “your language and your presence here is an insult to us all.” We were totally taken aback by this, but she made the comment and walked away. Eric, who speaks better German than any of the rest of us, yelled some impolite comment in German to her. She responded to us by saying, “Shame on you… This will all come back on you in ten years, mark my words!”
Our best guess is that she was trying to vent some anti-American anger about the war in Iraq, but she wasn’t very clear about it.
We have never come across someone so rude. She approached us without warning, said these awful words to us without any provocation (and without knowing anything about us), and then proceeded to walk away before we could respond. Her anger was clearly misplaced, and she only proved how cowardly she really is.
Our evening was saved, however, with a wonderful dinner at the Markusturm restaurant and hotel. Karen and Eric recommended the restaurant and joined us for dinner. They knew the owner well and were able to get us a table off by ourselves (to preserve both out sanity and the sanity of the other guests— we had four girls under four at the table!).
We were first served a wine soup that was completely divine and the dinner that followed was was equally fitting. I had a slice of pot roast in an onion gravy. Ken had grilled lamb and vegetables in a mushroom sauce– the specialty of the house. He said it was worth coming off his diet to eat. (This was after he took the hamburgers of his Big Mac at lunch.)
There was no birthday cake but we finished the meal with a very good piece of apple strudel with vanilla sauce and ice cream.
The dinner turned out to be a bit expensive but it was so worth every penny. The Markusturm is a famous building and appears in many pictures of the town. We purchased one of these great paintings and we can say “we were there”.
While on the subject of famous buildings, it turns out that Karen and Eric live in one as well. During World War 2 their house served as a safe house for escaped war prisoners. The current owner’s grandmother fed and hid soldiers in the cellar. Two of those prisoners went on to become French diplomats. They recently visited the house and honored the lady with a plaque which now hangs by the front door. It was amazing to set foot inside a part of history.

Karen and I in front of her famous house.
We spent Sunday doing much the same things as we did on Saturday. Talking, eating, and letting the kids playing in the park.
We started the morning with a wonderful breakfast at the hotel. While I was off loading my plate, the lovely owner came by and took Sadie off Ken’s hands so he could eat. The owner of the Markusturm had done this as well during our dinner the night before. This town LOVES kids.
In the afternoon, Ken and I got a chance to get away for an hour by ourselves. Karen so generously offered to watch the kids while they napped (in fact, she refused to take no for an answer).
So Ken and I headed out to see the major church of the town, St. Jacob’s. The church has an amazing wood alter called the Heilige Blut Alter (the Holy Blood Alter) designed to hold the church’s most important artifact: a drop of Jesus’s blood. The alter was carved by Riemenschneider who was considered the “Michelangelo” of wood. The details and carvings were very impressive and detailed.

We also visited the year-round Christmas shop called Kaethe Wohlfahrt. It was an amazing and beautiful sight but not any place that kids (at least our kids anyway) should venture into. The displays of Christmas decorations, porcelain dolls, and nutcrackers were huge and a boon for any Christmas lover. They also had smaller displays for Easter and other holidays, but Christmas is clearly the star attraction. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures inside the store. That’s too bad, because there were some beautiful displays.
Eric is an ex-Navy guy and therefore they are able to shop at the US military base nearby. I can only imagine how far my eyes popped out of their sockets at the sight of all of those brands from back home in their cabinets! As a gift from Karen, I was loaded up with Zesta saltine crackers, Jiffy corn muffin mix, and Crisco butter sticks. I am hoarding these goodies as if they were gold.
The weekend turned out better than I could have ever expected (aside from one crazy old lady) and made turning 30 a bit more bearable.

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